A Love Letter to Tulbagh: Wine, Warmth & Weekend Wanderings
With Cape Town’s winter weather cloaking the city in cool greys and golden sunsets, we seized the perfect excuse for a cosy escape. A staycation, yes — but one sprinkled with discovery, romance, and countryside charm. Just an hour and a half from the city lies Tulbagh, a jewel quietly nestled between the Witzenberg, Winterhoek, and Obiqua mountains.
This charming town, part of the Cape Winelands, is a place where time seems to linger, and life gently slows. Tulbagh is renowned for its award-winning wines — Shiraz, Chenin Blanc, and Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) — but also holds the unique title of producing South Africa’s rare white Pinotage. And if you, like us, are fans of olive oil, you’re in for a treat — this valley is also celebrated for its rich, flavourful olive produce
The Breakfast We’ll Never Forget: Kole & Deeg
Our Saturday morning began with a mission: to find the best breakfast in town. Locals directed us to Kole & Deeg, and now — we’ll be sending everyone we know right back there.
The space is thoughtfully decorated, warm, and inviting. We ordered their Platteland breakfast, complete with meaty delights and their signature roosterkoeke — golden, fluffy, and utterly divine. It was, without exaggeration, one of the best breakfasts we’ve had in ages. The only downside? The wait. But once the food arrived, we understood why — good things take time. We loved it so much, we returned for lunch to try their crunchy wraps and lamb meatballs — both packed with flavour and just the right amount of indulgence.
Menu here
An Olive Affair: Oakhurst Olives
Next on our itinerary was something truly special — a tutored olive tasting at Oakhurst Olives, led by the warm and knowledgeable Carmelita Brink. Set among sweeping groves, this award-winning producer is internationally recognised for its Kalamata table olives and extra virgin olive oil.
Tasting olive oil may sound niche, but believe us — it’s a sensory journey. We sampled a range of oils, marmalades, and sauces, each one showcasing the depth of care poured into this farm. A must-do experience for anyone looking to savour the subtler luxuries of Tulbagh.
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Wine with Heart: Manley Wine Estate
Our wine journey led us to Manley Wine Estate, a boutique estate with a big heart. Owned by Markus Ehehalt since 2020, we were lucky enough to meet him in person — a rarity these days.
Markus is hands-on, personally leading wine tastings and sharing stories behind each bottle. We sampled the Chenin Blanc — light, fresh, and made for summer sipping — as well as the Grenache Rosé, a vibrant blend of dragon fruit, lavender, plum, and strawberry. Their Shiraz and Pinotage were equally impressive.
Markus welcomed us with such warmth and took the time to walk us through the estate, from its history to its beautifully renovated accommodations — perfect for couples or families wanting to escape the everyday.
In winter, be sure to pick up a case of Ubuntu wines — R300 for 6 bottles, with proceeds supporting local children. Each bottle features artwork by these young artists. A beautiful initiative, proving that wine, indeed, can do good.
Explore the estate
A Romantic Dinner: Readers Restaurant
For dinner, we found our hearts at Readers Restaurant, a quirky, cosy spot filled with character — and cats. Yes, cats. Owner and chef Carol Collins is a feline lover and has created a unique space that feels both like home and like something from a European fairytale.
Carol greets every guest like family, often with a hug, and her presence lingers throughout your meal in the best way. The menu is small and curated — every dish a masterpiece of simplicity and flavour. We started with a crunchy phyllo pastry filled with chicken and feta, served with a bright, fresh salad. Mains? A springbok shank so tender it fell off the bone, served with garlic mash, honey-glazed sweet potatoes, and hand-cut chips. The other standout was the BLT cheeseburger — massive, juicy, and nostalgic in the best possible way.
Dining here felt like a warm hug from a favourite aunt, full of love, flavour, and joy. Carol, thank you for your magic.
Visit Readers
For Something Different: The Bike Forge
Before leaving town, pop into The Bike Forge — a biker-friendly, rustic hangout where vintage motorcycles meet great food and laid-back vibes. Centred around an old-school workshop, it’s a local favourite and a fun pit stop for something off the beaten track.
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Tulbagh isn’t just a destination — it’s a mood. It’s where wine warms your heart, food comforts your soul, and strangers welcome you like old friends. Whether you’re chasing new flavours, a romantic escape, or simply a slower pace, Tulbagh offers it all — with a glass of Chenin in hand.
Until next time, Tulbagh. You’ve stolen our hearts
